INDIVIDUAL GUIDE TO WATERING
In the ambiguous realm of horticulture there are many practices that are so mysterious, that they may well be included in the back pages of Tolkien novels, or are discovered in crypts etched on stones in the Egyptian desert. One of the most mystifying practices to perform and get right, particularly for the novice gardener, is watering. Oh MY!!! How many conditions there are that may influence your watering needs on any given day! From your global location, your on-site aspect, the species that you’re growing, your substrate of choice, the ground your pots/trays stand on (gradient/surface/etc), climatic conditions… basically every single person will require a different watering routine and it can take up CONSIDERABLE amounts of time!
Unfortunately, good watering isn’t something you can teach very easily, as most of it, as with a lot of things in horticulture, is done by feel and learned by trial and error. Lately though I’ve been thinking about hints that might be helpful to the newbie waterer that may help them kill less things as they learn ‘the knack’. So here they are!
Does it feel moist? →don’t water it
Does it feel dry? → lift the pot/tray up→ does the pot/tray feel heavy? →If yes, don’t water it. If no, water it.
Is it a succulent/cactus/other arid climate plant? →is it winter? →if yes don’t water →If not winter, lift pot →if has weight don’t water, if no weight water. Also, always pot arid climate plants in free draining substrate.(But you prob know that already). Always give these type of plants a good drink as it comes into the growing season and frequently throughout.
Many bulbs go dormant through the summer, ensure pots don’t sit wet, but also don’t allow to totally dessicate either. Best way to check moisture levels is to look at base of pot, if it appears damp, there’s probably enough moisture on board to keep bulb from drying out. Begin watering more frequently when signs of life begin.
I find almost all plants do well in a 80/20 mix of potting compost and fine bark chip (good quality one). This helps ensure overwatering is less likely to happen as the mix is quite ‘open’. Things also tend not to ‘cap off’ as easily, so are easier to re-wet if they get on the dry side.
On hot summer days, particularly if it’s windy you will probably need to water things in pots every day particularly those in a nursery type situation. Ornamental pots are usually much larger and can typically cope with longer periods of time between watering in the summer depending on what you’re growing. Dahlias are thirsty plants so will need a douse every day in the growing season.
Vegetables in active growth also require ample watering through the season. As a rule of thumb I do a count of twenty on each veg plant, with a good flow on the hose in the polytunnel on a hot day. Outside plants, or dull cooler days I do every other day and a count of ten. My soil is pretty free draining, heavier soils will need adjusting accordingly.
Basically, if your pots/trays are heavy with dark substrate, you’ve probably overwatered. Seed trays typically hold their moisture better due to teeeny (or ungerminated ) plants, so they usually just need one good water at sowing and then leaving alone until there are plants actively growing.
The bigger the plant, the more water it needs.
Most of the time, the larger (wide and long) the leaf, the more water a plant will need.
Small, thick, glossy, needle-like, furry, or silver grey foliage or bulbous plants typically need less water.
The hotter, brighter and windier (or more airflow) the place is where your plants are will mean they are transpiring faster and will need more water than they do on cool, dull, still or humid days.
EAAAASY!!! You’re Welcome!
